Stitch-forming mechanism for sewing-machines.



J. P. WEIS.

STITGH FORMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION YILED AUG. 23. 1902.

Patented Sept.27,1910.

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E I INVENTOH J. P. WEIS. STITCH FORMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION I'ILED AUG. 23, 1902.

Patented Sept. 27, 1910.

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JOHN P. WEIS, OF BROOKLYN; NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO

' METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

STITCH-FORMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

To all whom "it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN P. Wnrs, a citizen of the United States, residing in Brooklyn, county of Kings, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful lmproven'ient in Stitch-Forming Mechanism for Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description.

This invention relates to chain stitch sewing machines, and more particularly to machines using two threads for making a lockchain stitch, to be employed on, or in connection with, all kinds of goods or materials.

Specially, this machine is constructed for the purpose of overedging elastic goods of all character, as well as hat-sweats, gloves, and other articles and materials.

It is an object of my invention to produce a machine for the purpose of effecting various results in connection with a piece, or pieces, of fabric; that is to say, to provide a mechanism which will make an elastic seam in joining pieces of fabric, or will produce an ornate appearance in overedging, or in stitching in the body of goods.

it is a further object of my invention to provide a mechanism which can be adapted to any chain-st itch machine without altering the same in any material particular.

With the several obiects above set forthv in view, and others to be hereafter noted, the invention consists in the parts, features, and mechanism hereinafter described and claimed.

In the drawings: Figure l is a side elevation of a machine embodying my invention, the bed-plate being removed and other parts, not essential to the illustration, being omitted; Fig. 2 is a plan showing the throatplate and the adjustable tongue; Fig. 3 is a section on the line c-m of Fig. 2, looking in the direction of arrows in the latter figure; Fig. 4 is a plan of the end of the machine, shown in Fig. 1, the means for actuating the looper being shown, and the connection between the needle-lever and the actuating pitman being shown in section; Fig. is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. l, the view being intended to show details of the spreader mechanism; Fig- (3 is a section of the bracket for supporting the spreadercarrier, the same being taken on the line 1 1, Fig. 4, looking in the direction of the arrows in the latter figure, and showing the means for adjusting the bracket; Fig. 7

Specification of Letters Patent. Pwbgntgd Sept, 2'7, 19109, Application filed August 23, 1902.

Serial No. 120,780.

shows in top-plan the stitch applied to the edge of a smgle piece of work; Fig. 8 is a bottom view of the same piece of work;

Fig. 9 is a perspective of a section of two pieces of superposed fabric, showing how the same would be bound according to my method and on my machine; Fig. 10 is a top-plan of the work of Fig. 9; and Fig. 11 is a bottom View of the work of Fig. 10. Fig. 12 is a detail sectional view showing the manner in which two pieces of fabric are overedged, the section being taken, for example, between any two of the overedge stitches shown in Fig. 9.

The frame of the machine is indicated by A, the ne'edlebar by a, the needle-bar operating lever by b, the eccentric strap for operating the needle-bar lever by 0, and the ac- ,tuating eccentric by d, on the main-shaft e,

suitably supported in thebed-plate f, of the machine. The threadcarrying looper g, is carried by the arm it, fixed to the rock-shaft j, suitably journale'd on the bed-plate, said shaft being actuated by an eccentric Ki, carried on and near the forward end of the main-shaft, said eccentric being surrounded by the eccentric-strap Z, journaled on a crossbar m, connected to a pin n, sliding in'and supported by a bracket-piece 0, on the bedplate. The cross-bar is loosely connected to the end of the rock-shaft 7', and the mechanism just described gives to said rock shaft a sliding movement in the direction of its length and transversely to its rocking movement. The shaft is rocked by the pit man 7), jointed atone end to the looper arm or carrier 71, and at its other end to the depending arm 1, of the needle-actuating lever. These parts, together with the feed mechanism, takeup, and tension, may be of ordinary character and may form the stitchforming essentials of any ordinary chainstitch machine.

A bracket 1, having a vertical extension 2, is secured to the bed-plate of the machine just back of the rockshaft of the loope'r mechanism, said bracket being secured to the bed-plate and held in position thereon by screws 3, and being adjustable by means of small screws extending through the base of the bracket and impinging upon said bedplate. This means renders the bracket adjustable so as to tilt the same laterally relatively to the bed-plate as shown in Fig. 6, in order to obtain the proper or desired 00- spreader is held in said socket by means of the screw 11, and the structure just described enables said spreader to be adjusted vertically and literally relatively to the needle, as will be obvious. The spreader-carrier, at

its rear end 12-, is provided with a screw threaded socket for the reception of the forward end of a pitman 13, which at its rear end is jointed to the pin or support lat, carried by the depending arm 1, of the needlebar actuating lever. The forward end of the pitman 13, also screw-threaded, Whereby the same may be screwed into the screwthreaded socket of the spreader-carrier, and this connection renders said carrier adjustable in the direction of its length so as to project the spreader more or less forward relatively to the path of reciprocation of the needle. \Vhen the adjustment just described has been accomplished a jam-nut 15,, is screwed up against the end of the spreadercarrier so as to prevent; accidental change in position of the parts.

The spreader consists of a vertical stem 16, and a long arm or shank 17, arranged substantially at an obtuse-angle to the stem, this structure enabling the arm to be projected vertically above and below the bed-plate through an opening provided therein. The forward end of the spreader is provided, on its upper side, with a shoulder 18, and a short laterally and vertically extended finger 15), the linger being for the purpose of catching the looperthread and carrying it vertically from below the bed-plate to a position above the same and beside the path of reciprocation of the needle. The shoulder 18, prevents the said loop, carried by the finger, from slipping too far back upon the shank of the spreader, and aids in spreading and holding the loop of looper-thread in position for the needle to, enter the same, during its descent. and carry its thread therethrough.

The bed-plate is provided with a throatplate 20, having a free ended tongue 21, over which the stitch is formed and from the free end of which the stitch slips as the work is fed. This tongue is shown adjustable on the throat plate by means of slots 90, in the tongue and screws 21*, passing through said slots and entering the throat-plate as shown in Fig. 2. The tongue is set in a groove. or countersink, in the throatplatc, which sulliciently wide to permit of the requisite adjustment. lt will be understood that this is only an example of means f r adjusting said tongue.

The brat-plate to be provided with an adjustable edge-gage, of any character suitable for the purpose of guiding the material and maintaining its edge in proper position relative to the stitch-forming mechanism.

The single fabric 24, in Figs. 7 and 8, is shown as having its edge bound or overstitched, the needle-thread being shown at 25, and the looper-thread at 26. In these figures the stitching is shown as loosely formed so as to clearly illustrate the concatenation of threads and loops. In Figs. 9, 10 and 11, the two pieces of fabric which are joined are indicated by 27 and 27, the looper thread being shown at 26 and the needle-thread at 25, as in Figs. 7 and 8, the

stitch format-ion being also loose for the purpose of clear illustration.

The operation of the parts above described is as follows: The needle reciproeates verti'ally and the looper enters the loop cast thereby and interlocks its thread with the needle thread in the ordinary manner. The addition of the spreader device of my invention changes the character of the chain-stitch by carrying the looper-thread,

in the form of a loop, vertically through the bed-plate and over the edge of the work into position for entrance of the needle during its descent, thus making an overedge binding-stitch in which the loop of looperthread passes through the loop of needlethread, which looper-loop is in turn entered and held by the needle-thread, this being all on the under-side of the wo'rk,-and the said looper-loop being, on th face of the work, bodilv encompassed and heldby the needle-thread.

The manipulation of the threads, just described is carried out in connection with all character of work; but, by arranging the work, or pieces of work, differently various e'i'lect's can be secured. I or example, when hat-sweats are stitched or single pieces of material of any kind are overedged, as just described, the result is an ornate, substantial binding or finish for the edge of the work, as in Figs. 7 and 8; but, when two pieces of material are joined by first superposing and then ovcredging them, it Will be found, upon spreading the pieces apart, that a beading. rib, or corded edge, is produced, the looper-thread lying over the two edges of the work, giving it a finish, and the nectillc-thread, on the face of the work, spanning the crease, or line of seam, in parallel lines. See Figs. 9, 10 and 11. If knit, or other elastic, goods are manipulated as above described, it will be found that the seam, or edging, as the case may be, is quite elastic as the work and that a strong and substantial seam, or edging, is produced; and, in the latter case, that the edges are so bound as to prevent fraying, thus producing, in effect, an artificial selvage. 'lhen again, if the stitching is made in the body of the work,as by folding the same and producing an edge in the manner of the other manipulations described,-the result will be an ornamental rib or beading, re-

sulting from the fold of the work, covered by the looper-thread, which may be silk and colored. This effect is found to be useful and desirable in connection with the backs of gloves, and may also be produced on the surface of other articles for ornamental purposes.

The various adjustments above described are for the following'purposes: The standard, which supports the spreader-mechanism, is adjustable for the purpose of giving lateral clearance between the needle and spreader and between the looper and spreader; that is to say, after the spreader has been properly adjusted in its socket, if the same interferes with either the needle or the looper during its movements, such interference may be avoided by tilting the bracket in the manner described and to the extent necessary. And it may be found necessar to give to the sup orting bracket or stan ard a considerable tilt in order to cause the spreader to properly cooperate'with the ard for the support of a spreader and in the" claims I purpose coverin the same broadly.

The longitudinal a justment of the spreader-carrier is for the purpose of regulating and controlling the osition of the shoulder of the spreader re atively to the needle; that is to say, by adjusting the position of the carrier in the direct1on of its length the projection of the spreader over the tongue on the throat-plate can be regulated, or in other words, the shoulder of the spreader may be advanced or retracted more or less over said tongue relatively to the path of reciprocation, of the needle, for the purpose-of more r less extending the looper loop carried thereby thus deepening or narrowing the bight ,of the edging or. binding stitches. The tongue on thethroatlate, together with the edge-guide, would e necessarily adjusted correspondingly with this particular adjustment of the spreader.

The adjustment of the spreader in the socket of its carrier is for the purpose of positioning the point of the same relatively to the path of reciprocation of the needleand the point of the latter; that is to say, the spreader must'be so adjusted that its point will not stand in the path of reciprocation of the ncedle,-and also so that the body of the spreader will not obstruct the needle or cause the same to come into contact therewith so as to spring the same during its reciprocation; also the spreader-must be adjusted vertically sothat its point will be certain to catch the looper-thread and properly carry the same over the edge 'of the work and into position for entrance of" the needle. Therefore, this adjustment enables a very nice and fine positioning of the spreader so as to secure the proper cooperation of the latter with the needle.

From the abovedescription it will be clear that Ifhave produced a machine of a very useful character, sim 1e and easy in its operation, and capable 0 producing many useful and ornate elfects. It will also be clear that I have provided a mechanism which can be readily applied to any of the chain-stitch machines now in, use, without any material alteration of the latter; and, in this aspect of my invention, the mechanism may be termed an attachment. This is an important feature of my invention and upon it I desire to lay considerable stress; but, at the same time, I wish it to be understood that the invention does not stand in the light of a mere attachment, for the several elements, entering into the combina: tions for producing the several functions set forth herein, may be so combined and grouped as to make a composite, light and easy running machine for the purposes stated.

It may be noted that the various connections between the pitmen 13 and p, and the depending portion of the lever 1 and between the bracket 2, and the link 8, and between the latter and the carrier 9, may be ball, universal, or of any other character calculated to permit ease of movement.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to cover by Letters Pat: ent is:

1. A sewing machine havin in combination a needle and cooperating Iooper, means for actuating the same, and a spreader cooperating with the needle and looper, said spreader having a carrier, a stationary bracket pivotally supporting said carrier, means for adjusting said bracket so as tc incline the spreader laterally to any desired. degree relatively to the looper to position the spreader properly relatively to the looper and needle, and means for actuating said carrier.

2. A sewing machine having in combination a needle and looper, means for actuating the same, a spreader for 006 crating with the needle and looper, means f spreader bodily to any desired degree atan inclination relatively to the needle and looper so as to position the same properly for the purposes stated, and means for'actuating said spreader.

3. A sewing machine having in combination a needle and looper, means for actuating the same, a spreader cooperating with sai needle and looper, a spreader-carrier pivotally supporting said spreader, means for lator adjusting the erally adjusting said spreader, and means for actuating said sprea er-carrier including means for adjusting the same in the direction of its length, so as to regulate the extent to which the spreader may be projected over the cloth-plate and relatively to the path of movement of the needle. I

4. A spreader mechanism for sewing machines comprising a stationary bracket, means for adjusting the bracket by tilting the same laterally, acarrier pivota y supported on said bracket, a spreader supported by said carrier, and means for actuating said carrier; whereb the spreader may be adjusted bodily latera ly of its length so as to be supported in an oblique the needle and looper.

5. In combination, a vertically reciproeating needle, a thread-carrying looper, a

spreader, a throat-plate having a tongue,

bination, a suitable support, a stationary bracket lnclined relative y to said support, a link pivoted to said bracket, and extending vertically, a spreader-carrier extending horiposition relatively to' zontally and pivoted to the link, a spreader link pivoted to said bracket and extending vertically, a spreader-carrier extending horizontally and pivoted between its ends to said link, a spreader supported by said carrier, and means for actuating said carrier.

9 A spreader mechanism having, in combination, a suitable su port, a stationary bracket inclined relatively to said support, a link pivoted to said bracket and extending vertically, a spreader-carrier extending horizontally and pivoted between its ends to said link a spreader supported in one end of said carrler, and means cooperating with the other end of said carrier for actuating the latter.

10. An overedging machine comprising a needle, a looper, and a spreader, means for actuating the same, a stationary support for the spreader, and means for adjusting said support laterally whereby the spreader may be adjusted bodlly laterally and arranged at the proper inclination to the needle and looper to secure the proper cooperation of the parts for overedge stitching. I

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN P. WEIS. 

